Replacing a broken ceramic tile

Ceramic tiles are among the most attractive and durable floor coverings and, when properly installed and maintained, they can last a lifetime. But as tough as they undoubtedly are, tiles just are not indestructible.

Anyone who has dropped a cast-iron casserole or even heavy can of tinned food on a tiled kitchen floor is well aware that the fire-hardened glaze on tile can chip or even crack. Any manufacturing defect or the flexing of an inadequately strengthened subfloor can also cause tiles to crack.

All of which means you will probably during the lifetime of your floor have to replace a broken ceramic tile. The good news is that this is one job the average do-it-yourselfer can handle himself. All you'll need are a few common tiling tools and materials, and a portable drill with a good masonry bit.

Removing the old tile

You will need to remove the cracked or chipped tile without damaging any of the others. Work carefully, be patient and, above all else, do not lever against any of the surrounding tiles.

It is a good idea to stick gaffer tape or similar to tiles around the cracked tile for added protection.

First, wearing safety glasses and work gloves use an electric drill fitted with a 5mm masonry bit to bore a series of holes diagonally across the cracked tile from corner to corner, being careful to avoid drilling beyond the thickness of the tile.

Believe me you will know when the drill is through the tile, if in doubt mark the drill bit with the tile depth. Space the holes no more than 20mm apart.

Next, split the tile along the holes using a 10/15mm wide cold chisel and hammer. Don't try forcing the issue by hitting too hard on the chisel or you'll crack all the adjacent grout joints.

Make several light taps until tile fragments pop loose. Remove loose pieces and pry up any remaining pieces. Then carefully remove any surrounding grout remnants.

After clearing away the damaged tile, take a stiff-bladed scraper or your cold chisel and scrape the old mortar from the subfloor.

Don't worry about removing every last bit as long as the surface is fairly smooth and there is sufficient depth to fit the new tile with space for the adhesive, place a tile in the hole to check. Then vacuum up all loose dust and debris.

The replacement tile

The hardest part of tile repair could be finding a replacement tile that matches. First, check your garage or garden shed, there might be the odd box or even a few loose tiles left over from the original installation, if there isn’t make a note for next time you carry out any tiling, hang on to any spare tiles.

If you completed the original job without a single whole tile left over, you deserve a medal for efficiency so don’t chastise yourself. If you don't find any, take a piece of the damaged tile to your local tile dealers to look for a match.

Don’t give up if nothing is found a large established tile distributor like Tiles UK Ltd, website: www.tilesuk.com may help you out if you ask them nicely.

Remember though that finding/selling a single replacement tile is not good business for any tile shop.

If your floor is old, finding a matching tile could be impossible. Manufacturers will often discontinue old patterns and colours as new ones are introduced. Unless you're willing to live with the damage, choose the replacement tile that comes closest in colour and texture.

Matching the new grout to what is already there is also important - the wrong colour will make the repair stand out, even if the tile is correct.

Go to a larger tile outlet and ask to see the all coloured grouts that they stock, buy the smallest bag available and ask if this can be returned if unopened, better still enquire if they have a grout colour chart that shows the different colours, compare it to the existing grout and pick the matching colour.

Laying the new tile

Spread a 5mm thick bed of tile adhesive onto the subfloor; be sure that the entire area is covered. Next, rake the setting adhesive with the notched side of your trowel or applicator.

Lay your new tile into the fresh adhesive; when it is centred in to the space tamp it down carefully using the wooden end of your hammer handle.

Be sure to let the adhesive cure at least overnight before treading on the newly laid tile, placing something light but colourful on top of the tile during this period is a good idea. A child’s soft toy would be good, but do explain why teddy is sat in the middle of the kitchen floor.

When the adhesive has set mix your grout with water in a small container. Its strength and colour are affected by too much or too little water, so follow package directions closely.

Let the mixture stand a few minutes for the water to be absorbed.

Then stir the grout one more time and force it into the joints with a rubber float or a large dry firm sponge would also be good for this.

Sweep the rubber float or sponge over each joint diagonally several times until the gaps are filled and level with the surrounding joints.

Go over the surface again one final time to scrape up any excess grout. Let the grout cure until a hazy film dries on the surface of the tile and the lightly wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove all traces of the grout.

Wait a couple of hours before you polish the entire area you worked on with a clean, dry cloth to complete the job. Avoid washing or wetting this area of the floor for a couple of days and the job is a good one.

Just a quick reminder the all new Tile Store Online is open from the 1st February 2008 and can be found at: www:tileandtoolstore.com top quality 33x33cm ceramic floor tiles just £4.99 per square metre delivered.

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